It has only been in the last 65 million years or so that Kansas has been above sea level. The major continental uplift that created the Rocky Mountains also raised what is now the Plains states about half a mile above the floor of a shallow inland sea.

Consequently, much of Kansas is extremely rich in fossils of all manner of marine life forms, from marine fish and seashells, to bird footprints and impressions of leaves. The state also has some unusual geological features. Our part of Kansas, nearly the geographic center, is no exception.

Mushroom Rock State Park in Ellsworth County is the smallest, about five acres, but perhaps the most unique state park in Kansas, with some of the most unusual rock formations anywhere. Looking just like giant mushrooms rising above the horizon, these rocks served as meeting places and landmarks for Indians and early pioneers.

Early settlers to Kansas found the native stone useful for tools and weapons, and the natural rock outcrops for lookouts and art. Pictures carved in rock exposures, called petroglyphs, are found in the Smoky Hills. Settlers found this area rich with 100-million-year-old fossils.

The Wickedest Cowtown of the West

Ellsworth, Ellsworth County, and Fort Ellsworth were named for Lt. Allen Ellsworth, Company H, 7th Iowa Cavalry. Fort Ellsworth, later to be known as Fort Harker, was established in 1864. As rumors spread that the Kansas Pacific Railroad would establish their western terminal near the fort, speculators flocked there to seek their fortunes. The City of Ellsworth was established on May 8, 1867, on the north bank of the Smoky Hill River. By June of that year, the town had a population of over two thousand.

The beginnings of Ellsworth were troubled times. Natural disasters and other perils plagued the young town. The settlement was proposed to be on the western edge of the Fort Harker military reservation, which would offer protection, and the Smoky Hill River nearby offered a ready water supply.

However, the river flooded June 1867, and the town found itself under four feet of water. To compound this problem, Cheyenne Indians began causing trouble in the area. The coming of the railroad was much anticipated, but the extension of the rails into the area in late June and early July also brought an outbreak of Asiatic cholera, which swept through Fort Harker and Ellsworth, killing more than 300 people.

Because of the flood, the town created a "New Addition to Ellsworth" two miles northwest of the original townsite. The town had a North Main Street and South Main Street on opposite sides of the new railroad tracks; the space in-between was known as the Plaza. Businesses were established on both Main Streets, and this area was later referred to as "Snake Row."

In 1869, the citizens commenced upon an all-out campaign to bring cattle drives to the railhead at Ellsworth, which paid off by 1871. Until about 1885, it was the cattle town at the end of the trail for Texas cowboys and their herds of wild Texas Longhorn cattle.

"Ellsworth" conjures up images of epic cattle drives and saloon-filled streets. To the cowboys, Ellsworth was place where money, women, and drink flowed with abandon. Meanwhile, their Texas cattle made their way to northern markets by rail. In 1873, two hundred-twenty thousand head of Texas Longhorn cattle were shipped from Ellsworth.

The most notable incident of 1873 in Ellsworth was the killing of Sheriff Chauncey B. Whitney. The shooting of Sheriff Whitney is re-enacted yearly during the Cowtown Festival. The days of the cattle trade soon faded for Ellsworth. By 1875, most of the cattle market moved south as more railroads were completed. But, Ellsworth had made a reputation for itself. Although Abilene was the first cattle town and Dodge City the last, Ellsworth was known as the "wickedest."

Hodgden House

Fires were also a problem of early Ellsworth. Four major fires along the main streets gutted or destroyed homes and businesses. The Hodgden House was the first residence rebuilt after the 1875 fire. Today, this structure serves as the Ellsworth County Historical Society Museum.

Fort Ellsworth / Fort Harker

Fort Ellsworth, later known as Fort Harker, was one of three forts built to protect travelers on the Smoky Hill Trail, wagon trains on the Santa Fe Trail, and local settlements. Fort Harker also became a major supply station for forts in the west. Located with the restored complex are the:

Original Guardhouse
Junior Officer's Quarters
Depot with Salt Mine and Early Area History Exhibits

 

Ellsworth Today

Today's Ellsworth is a great place to live. The town has an excellent school system, with a Performing Arts Center at Ellsworth High School. The town has lovely parks, and a variety of interesting sites are close at hand, including two state lakes within 15 miles. The countryside near us is known for superior hunting and fishing.

We no longer consider Ellsworth to be a wicked city, but we remain proud of our Kansas Prairie heritage. You'll have to come visit and see for yourself.

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